Tony Nemo

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About Tony Nemo

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  • Birthday 10/25/1936

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  1. The volume in which you had the clone was of higher resolution than the body. Raise the resolution of the target volume so that the merged object doesn't lose detail.
  2. You are right. Only solution is to pick a view that will give you the best cut. Ideally it should snap to the surface. The spline does permit moving the points to a better position around the desired cut point.
  3. The Lasso is the default. Hit "E" and a window will open showing all the tools available.
  4. If that works for you, then that's fine.
  5. This should be done in Voxel mode (Toggle the S to get to V) where you could use "Cut & Clone" tool where you could use Vertex Curve or Curve Stroke tools (Toggle E) to create an accurate cut line for your part. Transform tool to place and Merge volumes to join.
  6. Try the default and undo if it fails to meet your requirements. Your goal is the best topology for small details. I'm really not familiar with the needs for printing.
  7. The surfaces will merge because voxel objects are a contiguous mass of 3D pixels. The wireframe adjustment at the point of union is spontaneous and no "bridging" is necessary.
  8. For a boolean of this type I would switch to Voxels. Surface mode accommodates cut-off and boolean subtractions but adding two things together usually means errors. Position the addition where you want it and merge the volumes.
  9. The Transform tool will snap to "Center Object". At this point you can move only the gizmo to any place and rotation you choose.
  10. In Surface mode, in the Geometry menu, select "Decimate" (with wire frame (W) showing) to get a more relaxed mesh with fewer unnecessary polys. This operation preserves detail. I would use the Pinch tool to cleanup the "demarcation" you referred to. When your done, experiment with the Autopo means of creating the UV mesh for the model.
  11. With your first problem, in the tool options panel. click "Move Only Gizmo" and make any adjustments you want. The tweak room is only accessable to models that have been 'baked' in the Retopo room and are ready to paint. If, when you have baked to the Paint room, you see some small adjustment to the mesh you created and baked in the Retopo room, will do it in the Tweak room (which I personally have not used).
  12. The image shows a part ready to be "Applied". Are you saying that you have done this and no copy was placed? If after 'applied' or <Enter>, you should be able to change tools and see your object remain in place.
  13. The 'Title' comes from Andrew's grandmotherly kindness for the fact of my age, 79. I've used 3DC for years but in the simplest character creation from sculpting, retopo and paint. What one learns with this simple workflow doesn't cover all the more arcane applications that might come up. There are, however, legitimate 'Experts' on this forum and I will henceforth abstain from offering advice in matters with which I am unfamiliar.
  14. In Surface mode, use the "Live Clay Tools" as they do the subdivision locally like you want.
  15. It is also more economical to boolean the parts together before retopology to avoid hidden polys like the inside of a helmet. You can seperate them with seams so they get their proper textures and manual retopology gets much lower poly counts. Autopo is best for non animatable objects and makes elegant meshes but editing them can be more time consuming than manual.