Jump to content
3DCoat Forums

Please, Help!!!! 3D-Coat - best pc build -> (AMD Threadripper?)


Rygaard
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Contributor
7 hours ago, AbnRanger said:

This explains things in greater detail and he makes it easy to understand the differences:

It was a real class on power supply.
Actually, I did not have the slightest notion of the difference between the power supply. Thanks for the referral.

 

7 hours ago, AbnRanger said:

Here is an EVGA 1000W Gold+ certified for $129 ($99 after rebate). That's probably what I would get if I were building a similar system.

AbnRanger,
After I saw the videos, I believe with this PC build and in the future adding (if necessary) another video card and other parts to the computer, the Power Supply 1000 Gold 80+ should be more than enough to handle everything.
I'll consider having Platinum if the price goes down.
Thank you very much for  the product link.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Contributor

Falconius,

Thanks for sharing the video!
What a video card! I've seen other reviews about this video card and how silent it is. Gigantic video card and so heavy that it bends from the motherboard.
I already had on my list the EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3 GAMING iCX Video Card which is also an excellent video card! Now, which is the best I really do not know.
The only problem I see (I hope I'm not wrong, please fix me if I'm wrong) compared to MSI GTX 1080 Ti Gaming X Trio is its occupying 2'5 slots (if I'm not mistaken) and this is not good in relation to a possible SLI in the future and the hassle in the installation with other components in the board as already argued by AbnRanger.
Watch the video below and you will see how the video card is bending. :(

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Advanced Member

Yeah it's a 2.5 slot.  That brace looks totally useless.  Honestly if I was doing it I would just cut a stick to the right length paint it black and prop up the sagging end that way.  At this level of card I think it's mostly down to personal preference.  They all perform pretty much the same, only differences are heat/noise and aesthetics/size.  I prefer the looks of the EVGA card (not that it really matters since they all face the bottom of the case :)).

Edit: This is the power supply calculator I went used: http://www.coolermaster.com/power-supply-calculator/  my system calculated out at I think 350-400 w and I left peltny of room in the supply and went with a 620w Bronze supply.  In that video up there on the testbench that whole system with the Ti is pulling 350 w.  In the calculator you can add a second video card just to future proof the power supply.  I'd think for you I wouldn't go below 1000 w and I might even want just a little bit more headroom probably 1200 w (If you really anticipate upgrading the computer significantly down the line, I hardly ever end up upgrading much).

Edited by Falconius
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Contributor

Sure, the manufacturers have sinned with the brace. In my opinion, they should have taken more care (they could have performed more tests) on this accessory that is important to ensure a (heavy) part that is so expensive. You spend a lot of money to still create an accessory that secures your board, for me, it is very negative.

I agree with you, the choice of video card is based on the person's taste, but what should definitely influence the choice would be the temperature, noise and size (slot 2.5). Being honest with you, I do not care for this part, in the aesthetic part of it I have preference for something that does not blink and color (I like something more discreet), what matters most to me in the end is the performance and benefits that the video card will provide me while performing my work.

Afterwards, I'll calculate all the components on this coolermaster site.
I did not know anything about power supply differences, now I have a more mature and solid direction of my choice. I plan to choose a power supply that consumes less energy. The energy here is charged very high. I being aware of this, I will choose a Gold or Platinum according to the information of the video.
I also figured that with this pc build, including another video card, the power supply should be 1000w or 1200w (just in case).
Many thanks for your tip!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Advanced Member

Well depending on the price of the power supply the efficient ones may cost more for the rating then you'd save in electricity.  It is a calculation dependent on many factors though, especially on how long you end up running the computer.  At any rate all the high wattage power supplies seem to be gold or above, I don't think Platinum rating has enough savings to justify the expense over gold (it's like a 2-3% efficiency difference).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Contributor
21 minutes ago, Falconius said:

Well depending on the price of the power supply the efficient ones may cost more for the rating then you'd save in electricity.  It is a calculation dependent on many factors though, especially on how long you end up running the computer.  At any rate all the high wattage power supplies seem to be gold or above, I don't think Platinum rating has enough savings to justify the expense over gold (it's like a 2-3% efficiency difference).

The PC usage time ... is a lot! However, both gold and platinum can serve me perfectly.
The only thing that would make me choose Platinum would be a lower price. If you had a promotion in value, why not? :) But otherwise, I'll stay with Gold!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Contributor

I was trying to get information on what kind of cooling would be the best for the threadripper processor.
There are two in particular, the Enermax - LiqTech TR4 360 (liquid cooling) and the Noctua NH-U14S TR4-SP3 (air cooling).
I know the Enermax - LiqTech TR4 360 is better.

However, since I have never had a liquid cooling system, my beginner doubts have arisen on the subject and I would like you to please clarify to me and others who may also have the same doubts as I do at the moment.
I could not find anything about the maintenance or if I need to do refill (I'm sorry if I'm saying something wrong) of the Enermax - LiqTech TR4 360.

If I need to do the refill, how long after doing the refill will I need to do this again? Every 6 months? Or every year? Or.... ?

Is this refill procedure complicated?

Should I be concerned about possible leaks? And if so, what kind of procedure should be done to try to avoid a disaster?
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FffaOYQpI6k

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Reputable Contributor
43 minutes ago, Rygaard said:

I was trying to get information on what kind of cooling would be the best for the threadripper processor.
There are two in particular, the Enermax - LiqTech TR4 360 (liquid cooling) and the Noctua NH-U14S TR4-SP3 (air cooling).
I know the Enermax - LiqTech TR4 360 is better.

However, since I have never had a liquid cooling system, my beginner doubts have arisen on the subject and I would like you to please clarify to me and others who may also have the same doubts as I do at the moment.
I could not find anything about the maintenance or if I need to do refill (I'm sorry if I'm saying something wrong) of the Enermax - LiqTech TR4 360.

If I need to do the refill, how long after doing the refill will I need to do this again? Every 6 months? Or every year? Or.... ?

Is this refill procedure complicated?

Should I be concerned about possible leaks? And if so, what kind of procedure should be done to try to avoid a disaster?
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FffaOYQpI6k

I think you already made a good choice with the Enermax model. It's a closed loop, so there should be no issues with leaks. Even on Air-Cooled CPU coolers, there is often fluid circulating through the heat-pipes, so All In One liquid Coolers follow roughly the same concept. I have a Corsair H115i in mine and it cools very well. No concerns at all. As for the Power Supply, I went with a 1000W because it's always better to have more headroom than you need than to skimp and later find out that you don't have enough capacity if you want to add another graphics card or two. With 2 GPU's you have plenty of headroom with a 1000W. Might even be able to run a 3rd, depending on how much wattage it pulls. For example, some of the AMD cards pull a lot more than their Nvidia counterparts. The Vega cards can pull close to 300W. If you only had a 600-700W power supply, you couldn't put 2 cards in. That's why I try to give myself a little cushion.

I will say, though, if you are going to invest in a ThreadRipper system, and if you plan on rendering animations on a GPU render, like Blender Cycles, Radeon ProRender, Octane, Redshift, iRay, VRay RT, etc., then you would probably want to run 3 or 4 cards...because that motherboard can handle it. Some only have 2 GPU slots. That AsRock board has 4. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Contributor
29 minutes ago, AbnRanger said:

The Vega cards can pull close to 300W.

This Vega video card is a real vampire compared to other video cards!

30 minutes ago, AbnRanger said:

That's why I try to give myself a little cushion.

You are correct to take a power supply already thinking about what you may have in the future (2, 3 or 4 video cards). I think for 3 video cards, just in case, the 1200w power supply should be the correct choice (as you said depending on how many watts it pulls).

31 minutes ago, AbnRanger said:

Enermax model. It's a closed loop, so there should be no issues with leaks.

You left me more relaxed about the leaks. I never had the courage to buy a liquid cooling. Now, I'm changing my mind.

For it to be a closed loop is necessary to make some kind of refill or maintenance?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Contributor
22 minutes ago, Falconius said:

There should be no need to open it up, and no leaks.  Maintenance should be nothing more than blowing off the dust every once in a while.

My God! Really? Great! :) Thank you very much for clarifying. I thought it was something very complicated!
I had seen a video where the person was doing the maintenance and I confess to you that I was disappointed with the procedure, taking away the fact that there would be potential leaks according to what I saw.

It may be a very silly question, but to remove the dust do you need to remove the liquid cooler board from the processor, clean it and then reinstall it in the processor? Or can you remove the dust with it installed in the processor?

Watch the video I mentioned above:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrEdLEhphN0

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Reputable Contributor
4 hours ago, Rygaard said:

My God! Really? Great! :) Thank you very much for clarifying. I thought it was something very complicated!
I had seen a video where the person was doing the maintenance and I confess to you that I was disappointed with the procedure, taking away the fact that there would be potential leaks according to what I saw.

It may be a very silly question, but to remove the dust do you need to remove the liquid cooler board from the processor, clean it and then reinstall it in the processor? Or can you remove the dust with it installed in the processor?

Watch the video I mentioned above:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrEdLEhphN0

Under normal conditions, you will probably replace your computer (several years) before a good All in One (Liquid) CPU Cooler would run into a situation such as that. It's pretty rare for that to occur. Just keep an eye on your Temps and if for some reason it were to suddenly spike much higher than normal, either idle or under load, then you might have such a problem. It's really more of a defect than a maintenance task.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Contributor
19 minutes ago, AbnRanger said:

Under normal conditions, you will probably replace your computer (several years) before a good All in One (Liquid) CPU Cooler would run into a situation such as that. It's pretty rare for that to occur. Just keep an eye on your Temps and if for some reason it were to suddenly spike much higher than normal, either idle or under load, then you might have such a problem. It's really more of a defect than a maintenance task

I thought that the Enermax - LiqTech TR4 360 had a good duration, but the way you said it exceeded all my expectations! That's great!
If it has any of the "defects" that you mentioned, I thought I could do a refill or some kind of maintenance. It's a shame I have to buy a new one.
But that's okay, it's part of the game.
Thank you very much for helping me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Advanced Member
9 hours ago, Rygaard said:

It may be a very silly question, but to remove the dust do you need to remove the liquid cooler board from the processor, clean it and then reinstall it in the processor? Or can you remove the dust with it installed in the processor?

Use a can of compressed air or some other source of compressed air to blow all the dust off.  For really stubborn places use a crappy brush (like a cheap paint brush small enough to fit).  Don't need to remove anything other than the external cables so you can put the case somewhere easy to reach.  From what I recall it is recommend to not use a vacuum as it can create static charge.

 

I thought that the Enermax - LiqTech TR4 360 had a good duration, but the way you said it exceeded all my expectations! That's great!
If it has any of the "defects" that you mentioned, I thought I could do a refill or some kind of maintenance. It's a shame I have to buy a new one.

No the warranty should cover it, you should return it.

Edited by Falconius
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Contributor
4 hours ago, Falconius said:

Use a can of compressed air or some other source of compressed air to blow all the dust off.  For really stubborn places use a crappy brush (like a cheap paint brush small enough to fit).  Don't need to remove anything other than the external cables so you can put the case somewhere easy to reach.  From what I recall it is recommend to not use a vacuum as it can create static charge.

Thank you very much for your patience in explaining to me my questions as a beginner (is that I really did not recognize the operation and how to properly clean the liquid cooling system). The cleaning is very simple compared to the video I saw, where the person dips the piece to be able to clean the dust, look at the video!). Thank you also for alerting me about the warranty!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d97M4uBGnXU

Edited by Rygaard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Contributor

Hello everyone,
I was researching on what kind of case for pc build.
This time, I'm going to direct to a cube / square case.
One of my main reasons is that you can mount the motherboard lying horizontally.
That way, I will not have concerns about the weight of the video card (sagging) or using other types of accessories to support the video card and keep it properly positioned.
Another reason for the cube case is the modulation, various types of coolings and ample space for a more advanced configuration of water cooling.

I'm between two Thermaltake models: the Core X9 and the Core X5.
The Core X9 is larger and allows more "configurations" and the Core X5 is smaller (but still a large case) with less options.

I would like everyone's opinion on what would be the best case between the two or if you know a similar case that is better (with the motherboard installed horizontally).

The cases:
Thermaltake Core X9:
---------------------
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oVNWBqD9dFQ

Review:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IMZ_4kfQYg&t=477s

________________________________

Thermaltake Core X5:
--------------------
Review:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilP8jE7vCbE

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Contributor
3 hours ago, Falconius said:

It's hard to go wrong with that much room.  To me they seem kind of annoyingly massive, as in figuring out how to fit them into my workspace would be annoying.  But if you've got the space for it why not?

True, this case is really massive and takes up space. I guess nobody can complain about space to do any kind of setup.
I believe that both thermaltake models are extremely ventilated cases.
The only thing I have to look at more closely are the dashboard deliveries, the core x5 model comes with 2 usb 2.0 inputs and 2 usb 3.0 inputs. While core the x9 model all 4 inputs are usb 3.0.

Edited by Rygaard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • New Member

So is it generally agreed that Ryzen CPUs are better utilized by 3DCoat than the 8th generation Intel CPUs? (Coffee Lake)

I was thinking of buying 3DCoat, but thought I should upgrade my old i5-3450 first. I've been swinging back and fourth between Intel and AMD for days now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Contributor
1 hour ago, JamesCKP said:

So is it generally agreed that Ryzen CPUs are better utilized by 3DCoat than the 8th generation Intel CPUs? (Coffee Lake)

I was thinking of buying 3DCoat, but thought I should upgrade my old i5-3450 first. I've been swinging back and fourth between Intel and AMD for days now.

Honestly, I will not know to answer you exactly if Ryzen CPUs are better.
Other people with more knowledge may.
I bought 3D-Coat and I'm going to have a pc build where I want to have the best experience working with the program.
I've always heard that Intel was superior to AMD, but because of my research and the help here from the forum (I have no way to thank everyone enough to have patience and attention) I've changed my vision completely and it looks like AMD has changed the game . I go towards AMD on this PC Build and I have strong intuition that will be my best bet in every way.
I know that my answer will not clear up your doubts completely, but the only thing I know is that everyone is having great experiences with AMD in using 3D-Coat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Advanced Member
5 hours ago, JamesCKP said:

So is it generally agreed that Ryzen CPUs are better utilized by 3DCoat than the 8th generation Intel CPUs? (Coffee Lake)

I was thinking of buying 3DCoat, but thought I should upgrade my old i5-3450 first. I've been swinging back and fourth between Intel and AMD for days now.

No I don't think so.  It's a price to performance issue in which AMD just blows Intel out of the water.  Top performance still has to go to Intel though (at least with normal CPU chips, I don't know about the i9's or Threadripper stuff but I suspect the same holds true).  That said you pay a lot more for it.  In general at comparable chips, AMD seems to perform slightly better at content creation tasks, very heavy load crunches etc. where as Intel performs better in things that need blazing speed, like games.  I like to think of it as intel is the sports car and AMD is the tractor trailer (but this simile could be totally inaccurate).  The reason I went with Ryzen 7 1700  was 1) price in comparison to intels competing chips, 2) the fact that it is easy to overclock and unlocked (which none of the non-k variety of intel chips are as far as I'm aware), 3) way more cores and threads, 4) I like competition in the market because it's good for the consumer, and 5) Availability issues. Intel was not prepared to launch Coffee Lake, they were forced into it by Ryzen, and so there is a vast shortage of those CPU's.  For instance where I live when I was building my machine, the local parts dealer did have the Coffee Lake cpu's listed, but not as immediately available, and now when I check their site they aren't even listed anymore. 

My last chip was also an intel, an i5 3570 and I also felt is was around time to upgrade :) .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Contributor
On 13/12/2017 at 9:32 PM, kwhali said:

I thought I chime in, I have threadripper 1950x at work. Some operations in 3dcoat are single threaded or not.able to utilize much threads/cores. But some tasks I notice can use all 16 core and 32 thread, useful then, otherwise higher clock rate is useful.

  Thanks for sharing your experience. Please, could you tell me how your experience using 3D Coat in Sculpt Room and Paint room by amd threadripper 1950X?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
5 minutes ago, Rygaard said:

  Thanks for sharing your experience. Please, could you tell me how your experience using 3D Coat in Sculpt Room and Paint room by amd threadripper 1950X?

I mostly use coat to repair 3d scan data. So only really use sculpt room with surface volumes, no voxels. It has been pretty good so far, any issues are due to software not the hardware. Paint room for example, low poly is 1 million triangles and 100 8k texture uv sets. Coat can barely manage a few at a time and can be slow to switch textures due to way it handles memory. Sculpt room is fast with brushes on 15 million.

Like I said earlier, unless you use tasks that take advantage of multi-threading often, you may prefer higher clock rate for faster single threaded performance. Threadripper is nice with lots of pci lanes and 128GB RAM.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Contributor
27 minutes ago, kwhali said:

I mostly use coat to repair 3d scan data. So only really use sculpt room with surface volumes, no voxels. It has been pretty good so far, any issues are due to software not the hardware. Paint room for example, low poly is 1 million triangles and 100 8k texture uv sets. Coat can barely manage a few at a time and can be slow to switch textures due to way it handles memory. Sculpt room is fast with brushes on 15 million.

Like I said earlier, unless you use tasks that take advantage of multi-threading often, you may prefer higher clock rate for faster single threaded performance. Threadripper is nice with lots of pci lanes and 128GB RAM.

So it means that the amd Threadripper 1950X is an excellent system for 3D-Coat (even with possible problems).
I'll mount the system using it and if possible with 128GB of memory,  but with one GTX 1080ti.
My intention is to use Sculpt Room for sculpting and fine detailing (I wish I could replace Zbrush) and Paint Room 8k textures. In both working fluently and without slowness.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
3 hours ago, Rygaard said:

So it means that the amd Threadripper 1950X is an excellent system for 3D-Coat (even with possible problems).
I'll mount the system using it and if possible with 128GB of memory,  but with one GTX 1080ti.
My intention is to use Sculpt Room for sculpting and fine detailing (I wish I could replace Zbrush) and Paint Room 8k textures. In both working fluently and without slowness.

Yes it's excellent for sculpting surface volumes for us. We recently tried it out due to difficulties/errors with zbrush that the artists didn't notice(due to how zbrush present the data to user, it is not true 3D), we were able to quickly upskill to 3d coat and repair the damage with the toolset. The artists much prefer using 3d coat now so we will be looking at purchasing licenses to migrate to it. Personally I'd like to see some more features for repair work, where they might exist in say retopo room but not sculpt and vice versa.

Also has trouble importing mesh data great than 500MB for me, not sure why. We use multiple UV set(UDIMs) and coat is meant to be good at this, letting us paint across tiles/sets which other software often doesn't. It is just not presently a pleasant experience and quite slow to setup for just a few(5 tiles 8k used about 60GB memory and I think take 30-60 mins waiting for it to initialize textures even though no texture data is painted/imported, still allocated memory).

Once ready to paint though, has been a good experience and fast. It will depend on what you do, zbrush can probably handle much more information I guess(at least triangles artists worked with at least 30 million, in coat we work with about half of that due to import issue). We have 128GB RAM and 1080ti as well, works well. Sculpting usually only uses 4-8GB RAM tops from what I noticed so far(working with around 10-15 million triangles), we use the 128GB RAM for other software that uses it all. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Contributor
9 hours ago, kwhali said:

Yes it's excellent for sculpting surface volumes for us. We recently tried it out due to difficulties/errors with zbrush that the artists didn't notice(due to how zbrush present the data to user, it is not true 3D), we were able to quickly upskill to 3d coat and repair the damage with the toolset. The artists much prefer using 3d coat now so we will be looking at purchasing licenses to migrate to it. Personally I'd like to see some more features for repair work, where they might exist in say retopo room but not sculpt and vice versa.

Also has trouble importing mesh data great than 500MB for me, not sure why. We use multiple UV set(UDIMs) and coat is meant to be good at this, letting us paint across tiles/sets which other software often doesn't. It is just not presently a pleasant experience and quite slow to setup for just a few(5 tiles 8k used about 60GB memory and I think take 30-60 mins waiting for it to initialize textures even though no texture data is painted/imported, still allocated memory).

Once ready to paint though, has been a good experience and fast. It will depend on what you do, zbrush can probably handle much more information I guess(at least triangles artists worked with at least 30 million, in coat we work with about half of that due to import issue). We have 128GB RAM and 1080ti as well, works well. Sculpting usually only uses 4-8GB RAM tops from what I noticed so far(working with around 10-15 million triangles), we use the 128GB RAM for other software that uses it all. 

 

I have the same desire as you to have more tools to further improve the work. I know it's not good to compare 3D-Coat with Zbrush, but it's the program that competes with 3D-Coat and everyone knows about it.
For many years, 3D-Coat had pioneered the unique and incredible tools and features that Zbrush admired, enriched and at the same time perfected for its toolkit.
I love 3D-Coat, please do not get me wrong, but I do not understand why 3D-coat´s team did not add and refine tools to the sculpt room in the same way that ZBrush's team did for them. For example, the layer system that is extremely important and that all artists use in their work to date does not exist in 3D-Coat. As well as other tools that I would like to have existed in 3D-Coat and that exist in ZBrush.

Regarding Paint Room, depending on your task, for example, choosing Displacement mode, the paint is completely slow and even more so if you increase the size of the brush. I do not understand much, but the problems that you said, for sure, are related to the program and have nothing to do with the hardware that is the best in the present time.
 
You're quite right, ZBrush knows how to handle millions of polygons much better, which makes it look spectacular in your work.
I'm in the process of transition to 3D-Coat. Trying to better understand the procedure of sculpting and detailing. The fine detail I'm aiming for would be similar to Zbrush, but it seems kind of tricky to achieve because you need to have a lot more subdivisions in 3D-Coat, otherwise the details get low resolution. I know I could use tools like live clay and other techniques, but as I told you, I want to better understand the operation and how to achieve fine details in 3D-Coat in the same way as in Zbrush.

I thought that with 128GB RAM, 3D-Coat could reach millions more polygons.
The maximum you work with is 10-15 million? Or does your work need not go beyond this amount of polygons?

With the PC Buid that I will acquire, I hope to be able to work fluently in 3D-Coat. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Reputable Contributor

In the Sculpt Room, with 32GB of RAM, even with an older i7 870 (6-core/12threads), I had no problem reaching over 100mill polys in the scene, especially if the layers were in Surface mode (Voxels consume more RAM). In the Paint Room, if you are "sculpting" with displacement/normal maps, you can increase the subdivision of the mesh that drives displacement. It's in the VIEW Menu > at the bottom, under ADJUST TESSELLATION. It's pretty much like working in a typical 3D app, where you can subdivide the mesh while keeping the original wireframe showing. 

So, if you turn wireframe on, you won't see the subdivided wireframe, but if you sculpt something using normal/displacement maps (DEPTH channel), you can check the SHOW DISPLACEMENT option above the Tessellation option, and see it displaced in the viewport. I haven't found depth painting/sculpt to be slow. On 8k maps, perhaps, but that is venturing into Mari's territory, where it is designed to handle maps of that size with relative ease, as it caters to the film industry. 8k maps for normal animation work is a bit excessive. A character with separate 4k maps for the head, torso, arms, legs and secondary objects is no problem at all.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Contributor
4 hours ago, AbnRanger said:

In the Sculpt Room, with 32GB of RAM, even with an older i7 870 (6-core/12threads), I had no problem reaching over 100mill polys in the scene, especially if the layers were in Surface mode (Voxels consume more RAM). In the Paint Room, if you are "sculpting" with displacement/normal maps, you can increase the subdivision of the mesh that drives displacement. It's in the VIEW Menu > at the bottom, under ADJUST TESSELLATION. It's pretty much like working in a typical 3D app, where you can subdivide the mesh while keeping the original wireframe showing. 

So, if you turn wireframe on, you won't see the subdivided wireframe, but if you sculpt something using normal/displacement maps (DEPTH channel), you can check the SHOW DISPLACEMENT option above the Tessellation option, and see it displaced in the viewport. I haven't found depth painting/sculpt to be slow. On 8k maps, perhaps, but that is venturing into Mari's territory, where it is designed to handle maps of that size with relative ease, as it caters to the film industry. 8k maps for normal animation work is a bit excessive. A character with separate 4k maps for the head, torso, arms, legs and secondary objects is no problem at all.

 

In the Paint Room, sculpting or detailing with displacement when I increase the subdivision of the mesh (Adjust Tesselation) and using textures of 8K the painting process gets slow.
I know Mari was designed to handle 8K textures up, but I wish 3D-Coat would have a better performance with 8K textures, it would be fantastic.

At the moment, it seems the best way to deal with this problem is to work with 4K maps for each character fragment as you said it (head, torso and etc).

I hope that with 128GB of memory and a GTX 1080Ti the procedure of painting and sculpting has an excellent performance working on 3D-Coat.

Excellent video tutorial, just like everyone else! :)

If not ask too much, could I suggest a video tutorial?
Could you demonstrate how to achieve fine, realistic detailing in a character on 3d-Coat? Well, I can not detail my characters in 3D-Coat in the same way as in ZBrush. The best realistic detail I can achieve is using ZBrush. :(
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...