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  1. I am trying to save a sculpt out as an STL file for printing. I'm working off of an 11mil triangle sculpt. When I save to STL from 3dcoat 4.9.67 it spins its wheels for like 30 minutes and is using 94% of the CPU. Eventually I force quit with no STL file being saved. When I attempt the same thing in 3dcoat 4.8.25 it spins its wheels, but is only using 17% of the CPU. So far neither result in a successful save. Any idea why the difference in CPU usage? And am i just making a mistake by trying to save to STL from an 11 mil sculpt?
  2. I don't know if any of you are interested in turning your 3d printed sculpts into bronzes, but that's what I have done over the last couple of years.Actually I use a combination of clay,wax and 3d prints to create the originals, then I make a silicone rubber mold and pour a wax copy etc. I won't go into the entire casting process because it is rather extensive and there is plenty of info. online if you want to learn about it. With the help of my parents, my wife and my son we built our own casting facility through which we cast our own work.It is a resurrection of the foundry my Dad and I built years ago.If your thinking about casting your own sculpts you may want to contact your local foundry because building your own foundry is costly and labor intensive and not worth it if you are only going to do one offs and not sell multiple editions of the piece.The cost of casting will vary depending on your location and the particular foundry you use.Where I live, (North Carolina), I have been quoted anywhere from several hundred for a small uncomplicated piece to several thousand for a more complex piece.It's not cheap but it may be worth it if you value your art and want to preserve it forever. Casting my own work has saved me thousands but like I said it's not for everyone. Some of you may remember some of these compositions I created in 3D Coat years ago, which were subsequently reworked in Zbrush and printed on my 3D printers.There are many advantages to doing the sculpts in a modeling program rather than in clay, a couple of the main ones are that you are able to enlarge or shrink the work depending on your needs.Also the work doesn't sit around in a studio taking up space and perhaps getting destroyed waiting to be cast.I mainly use 3D Coat as a concepting tool these days, it's perfect for quickly hashing out ideas before 3D printing or creating a clay of the concept. Anyway I just wanted to share with you how I have used 3D Coat as a tool not only for concepting but for creating bronze sculptures through 3D printing. I would also like to share with you my new website and to thank Andrew and his team for reigniting the sculpting spark in me which has lead to me getting back into creating bronzes.It has been a lot of work getting to this point and hopefully it is just the beginning of a long line of work to come.I have many new works in progress and will post them on my site as they emerge from my studio.My site is in its early stages and needs a lot of work, but it's a start. If any of you are interested in casting your work or have any questions on the process let me know I would be happy to chat with you. http://sarasinsculpture.com/ Email: lookerfortruth@yahoo.com Take care and Merry Christmas to you all. Rick(tree321) P.S: These 3D Coat sample sculpts were created in a very early beta stage of 3D Coat (2009) when there was only a few basic brushes in voxel mode only so forgive the crudeness of the sculpts.
  3. I have a sculpt I want to 3D Print but having a hard time finding any info on how to do this with 3D Coat. I have seen the 3D printing plugin but still now sure on the correct steps. Ideally, I would love to print it with the texture too. Any information or tips to point me in the right direction is much appreciated. Here's my sculpt:
  4. Is there a way 3DC can calculate object mass (volume) and weight based on a material (i.e. 24K gold), and find the weight centre-point of an object?
  5. Does 3dcoat support vrml, 3dm with vertex color embedded? Vrml is standard colored printing format. The colors can be embedded. 3dm is new format for colored printing which is used also by win 10 3dbuilder. Probably will be supported by mspaint3d. I tried importing vrml and 3dcoat just crashed.
  6. Hello All! For those of you already on Pluralsight/Digital Tutors or those of you who might want to be, I recently had a 4 1/2 hour course covering some techniques in Character Sculpting published. If you want, please take a look at the course overview below: 3d-coat-character-concept-sculpting-techniques One thing that is different about it is that it covers a way of taking the voxel/surface sculpt directly to Cura to 3D print. In my case it is a Lulzbot TAZ 5 3d printer, but the techniques could apply to other printers as well. Excelsior! Eric Kunzendorf
  7. Hi all, just came across this Kickstarter campaign via Facebook and thought character sculpters with an own 3D printer like the idea of this workflow. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/adambeaneindustries/cx5-sculptable-filament-for-3d-printers?ref=project_link
  8. Hi, I'm wondering if there are resources around here related to a prototyping work flow between Rhinoceros CAD and 3D Coat sculpting (with 3D printing as the output). If anyone has insights they'd be willing to share, I'd be grateful. Thanks dayoldy
  9. Hey guys, I'm super frustrated. I have an .obj with UVs from a 3D scanner I want to clean up and I have taken SO MANY tutorials and every time I think I have found a solution it turns out it can't work in the new 4.5 version as the UI has changed. I did all I can to be a self learner but I'm stuck. Here's my questions... 1. I want to import it into the Voxel room and clean it up with the color already baked in. If I need to carve out an ear... I need to see the UV to know where to cut. What is my order of operations? 2. I've unwrapped the UV in Capturing Reality and it's messy. If I am painting directly on the model does it even matter? And it seems to be importing has voxel model and surface model directly on top of each other and as two parents in the Paint Room. Why is this? 3. When I go to export the final mesh for 3D printing IN SANDSTONE, is it better to export for print or just export the new .obj with baked color? Thanks so much! Bethany
  10. Alemar

    Odoya Yemanjá

    From the album: Alemar 3D printing models

    made for 3D printing this a mermaid Yemanjá ,there is a popular party in Brazil about her... Inspired by Yemanja , with a mixture of traces of " manga " drawing Japanese comics, the jewelry can be purchased in various materials , from plastic to 18K gold , using the latest 3D printing technologies . http://shpws.me/LnYC http://shpws.me/LnYF

    © by Marco Alemar

  11. From the album: Alemar 3D printing models

    Inspired by Yemanja , with a mixture of traces of " manga " drawing Japanese comics, the jewelry can be purchased in various materials , from plastic to 18K gold , using the latest 3D printing technologies . http://shpws.me/LnYC http://shpws.me/LnYF

    © Marco Alemar

  12. There are a few things I am trying to understand with 3DC, and I am hoping for some quick answers that can get me going without too much searching. The trouble I have been having is with absolute numbers (mm) at preferred resolutions. I want to import an obj or stl file at .05mm (voxel) resolution and I want to know its physical size (in metric) before I commit (voxelise) the mesh. I have spend considerable time looking for a panel that gives the physical size of meshes, either before importing or after, but have not been thus far successful. True object size is very important to me since my interest is related to 3d printing. I want to import, move, scale, calculate stl reductions, and export my models in real world units. Percentages are usually not of great use to me. Do I have this option in 3DC?
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