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Found 14 results

  1. supereasy1001

    [Solved] Save to STL 3dc 4.8 vs 4.9

    I am trying to save a sculpt out as an STL file for printing. I'm working off of an 11mil triangle sculpt. When I save to STL from 3dcoat 4.9.67 it spins its wheels for like 30 minutes and is using 94% of the CPU. Eventually I force quit with no STL file being saved. When I attempt the same thing in 3dcoat 4.8.25 it spins its wheels, but is only using 17% of the CPU. So far neither result in a successful save. Any idea why the difference in CPU usage? And am i just making a mistake by trying to save to STL from an 11 mil sculpt?
  2. tree321

    3D Coat to Bronze

    I don't know if any of you are interested in turning your 3d printed sculpts into bronzes, but that's what I have done over the last couple of years.Actually I use a combination of clay,wax and 3d prints to create the originals, then I make a silicone rubber mold and pour a wax copy etc. I won't go into the entire casting process because it is rather extensive and there is plenty of info. online if you want to learn about it. With the help of my parents, my wife and my son we built our own casting facility through which we cast our own work.It is a resurrection of the foundry my Dad and I built years ago.If your thinking about casting your own sculpts you may want to contact your local foundry because building your own foundry is costly and labor intensive and not worth it if you are only going to do one offs and not sell multiple editions of the piece.The cost of casting will vary depending on your location and the particular foundry you use.Where I live, (North Carolina), I have been quoted anywhere from several hundred for a small uncomplicated piece to several thousand for a more complex piece.It's not cheap but it may be worth it if you value your art and want to preserve it forever. Casting my own work has saved me thousands but like I said it's not for everyone. Some of you may remember some of these compositions I created in 3D Coat years ago, which were subsequently reworked in Zbrush and printed on my 3D printers.There are many advantages to doing the sculpts in a modeling program rather than in clay, a couple of the main ones are that you are able to enlarge or shrink the work depending on your needs.Also the work doesn't sit around in a studio taking up space and perhaps getting destroyed waiting to be cast.I mainly use 3D Coat as a concepting tool these days, it's perfect for quickly hashing out ideas before 3D printing or creating a clay of the concept. Anyway I just wanted to share with you how I have used 3D Coat as a tool not only for concepting but for creating bronze sculptures through 3D printing. I would also like to share with you my new website and to thank Andrew and his team for reigniting the sculpting spark in me which has lead to me getting back into creating bronzes.It has been a lot of work getting to this point and hopefully it is just the beginning of a long line of work to come.I have many new works in progress and will post them on my site as they emerge from my studio.My site is in its early stages and needs a lot of work, but it's a start. If any of you are interested in casting your work or have any questions on the process let me know I would be happy to chat with you. http://sarasinsculpture.com/ Email: lookerfortruth@yahoo.com Take care and Merry Christmas to you all. Rick(tree321) P.S: These 3D Coat sample sculpts were created in a very early beta stage of 3D Coat (2009) when there was only a few basic brushes in voxel mode only so forgive the crudeness of the sculpts.
  3. joshfilms

    3D Printing my Sculpt?

    I have a sculpt I want to 3D Print but having a hard time finding any info on how to do this with 3D Coat. I have seen the 3D printing plugin but still now sure on the correct steps. Ideally, I would love to print it with the texture too. Any information or tips to point me in the right direction is much appreciated. Here's my sculpt:
  4. curvedspace

    Volume mass, weight, centre point

    Is there a way 3DC can calculate object mass (volume) and weight based on a material (i.e. 24K gold), and find the weight centre-point of an object?
  5. geo_n

    vrml, 3dm format import

    Does 3dcoat support vrml, 3dm with vertex color embedded? Vrml is standard colored printing format. The colors can be embedded. 3dm is new format for colored printing which is used also by win 10 3dbuilder. Probably will be supported by mspaint3d. I tried importing vrml and 3dcoat just crashed.
  6. Hello All! For those of you already on Pluralsight/Digital Tutors or those of you who might want to be, I recently had a 4 1/2 hour course covering some techniques in Character Sculpting published. If you want, please take a look at the course overview below: 3d-coat-character-concept-sculpting-techniques One thing that is different about it is that it covers a way of taking the voxel/surface sculpt directly to Cura to 3D print. In my case it is a Lulzbot TAZ 5 3d printer, but the techniques could apply to other printers as well. Excelsior! Eric Kunzendorf
  7. Hi all, just came across this Kickstarter campaign via Facebook and thought character sculpters with an own 3D printer like the idea of this workflow. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/adambeaneindustries/cx5-sculptable-filament-for-3d-printers?ref=project_link
  8. Hi, I'm wondering if there are resources around here related to a prototyping work flow between Rhinoceros CAD and 3D Coat sculpting (with 3D printing as the output). If anyone has insights they'd be willing to share, I'd be grateful. Thanks dayoldy
  9. scant

    Scan Import Workflow

    Hey guys, I'm super frustrated. I have an .obj with UVs from a 3D scanner I want to clean up and I have taken SO MANY tutorials and every time I think I have found a solution it turns out it can't work in the new 4.5 version as the UI has changed. I did all I can to be a self learner but I'm stuck. Here's my questions... 1. I want to import it into the Voxel room and clean it up with the color already baked in. If I need to carve out an ear... I need to see the UV to know where to cut. What is my order of operations? 2. I've unwrapped the UV in Capturing Reality and it's messy. If I am painting directly on the model does it even matter? And it seems to be importing has voxel model and surface model directly on top of each other and as two parents in the Paint Room. Why is this? 3. When I go to export the final mesh for 3D printing IN SANDSTONE, is it better to export for print or just export the new .obj with baked color? Thanks so much! Bethany
  10. Alemar

    Odoya Yemanjá

    From the album: Alemar 3D printing models

    made for 3D printing this a mermaid Yemanjá ,there is a popular party in Brazil about her... Inspired by Yemanja , with a mixture of traces of " manga " drawing Japanese comics, the jewelry can be purchased in various materials , from plastic to 18K gold , using the latest 3D printing technologies . http://shpws.me/LnYC http://shpws.me/LnYF

    © by Marco Alemar

  11. Alemar

    yemanja instagram jewelry

    From the album: Alemar 3D printing models

    Inspired by Yemanja , with a mixture of traces of " manga " drawing Japanese comics, the jewelry can be purchased in various materials , from plastic to 18K gold , using the latest 3D printing technologies . http://shpws.me/LnYC http://shpws.me/LnYF

    © Marco Alemar

  12. There are a few things I am trying to understand with 3DC, and I am hoping for some quick answers that can get me going without too much searching. The trouble I have been having is with absolute numbers (mm) at preferred resolutions. I want to import an obj or stl file at .05mm (voxel) resolution and I want to know its physical size (in metric) before I commit (voxelise) the mesh. I have spend considerable time looking for a panel that gives the physical size of meshes, either before importing or after, but have not been thus far successful. True object size is very important to me since my interest is related to 3d printing. I want to import, move, scale, calculate stl reductions, and export my models in real world units. Percentages are usually not of great use to me. Do I have this option in 3DC?
  13. curvedspace

    Wall thickness

    Hi, I am a newcomer to 3D-Coat, though not to 3D. There are a few questions I have, so I will start with the first one: Is there a tool in 3DC that measures wall thickness?
  14. I have a bit over 2 years in 3d printing technology. Mainly the FDM type as I own one. The industry is full of hype. Like the 3d printing of guns which is not practical for any low end desktop 3d printer. Here on my gallery page I have a few things I have created: http://www.fx-creator.com/gallery.html Ok now to the good stuff. The 3d Printer I own is an Airwolf3D 5.5 printer. This printer can print up to 12 known materials. I have used PLA, ABS, TPE myself. The process depends on your tools. I use a variety of tools such as 3d-Coat, Softimage and Repetier-Host. There are mesh clean up tools like Meshlab etc.. The main thing people have to understand more than the 3d modeling tool they use is how the model is constructed and the resolution you are interested in printing. Some of the tools that create the G-code will choke on a valid STL file. What is most important is this. The lower the resolution the more simplified the model should be. So you can use a low poly mesh for a standard .4mm height printing. All should work fine. The more detailed model the higher you can push your model. You can run a higher resolution model with low settings and it will work however it will take longer to process. Most people just throw a 5k to 10k poly count model for say like a character at these applications. The program is designed to just process the model and will fail when it runs out of ram or if you set a setting that is in conflict. G-Code creation and tools like Slic3r or Skeinforge. These are 2 of the main opensource slicing tools used. There are probably others but the focus is not on which tool you use. What is important is understanding how the 3d printing process works. All 3d FDM printers are like a hot glue gun with several computer controlled features. There is a couple of ratio calculations that are used for determining how fast to feed the filament and the speed of the extruder moves. Most of these ratios you do not have to worry about. Skienforge does force you to be aware of them and there are over 50 independent settings too. So knowing how the machine works will help in your settings. It takes a while for a novice to be able to print with any good quality as each different machine has quirks. You will have to just experiment. If your serious then you will create profiles and label them. Keep a log of what settings you did and the outcome. A friend of mine bought a Solid Doodle 3d printer when they were first released. These printers are not for a novice as you are set up with Skienforge. Skienforge has a lot of different settings and my friend was not aware of how to set them. His first attempt at printing he crashed the head. The design of the 3d printer does not allow for the head to give a little in case of sending the Z axis too far. Now I helped fix his printer and replaced the head. I also gave him some instructions on how to use the 3d printer. The Solid Doodle can print very good once it is set up properly. Those wanting a good 3d Printer need to do a good amount of research. I am not going to say buy what I have but after owning one the best thing for me was support. The people there are nice and will make sure you get a working product. You can get kits or buy the thing fully assembled. Read the reviews and talk to them. Take tours if your close by. Most important do your homework and understand not only the machine but the process. If anyone has any questions relating to the process I use or in general post a comment below and I will respond if I know the answer. Also if I do not know I will try to find someone who does.