Jump to content
3DCoat Forums

Cheap 3D printer


philnolan3d
 Share

Recommended Posts

I just got a 3D printer recently and I've been having a lot of fun with it. It's an Orange 10 by Longer 3D. It's an MSLA type, meaning it uses liquid resin instead of plastic filament. That gives it much higher detail. Best part is it's only $229.


Here's one of my early prints, sculpted in 3D-Coat of course.

20190803_131308.jpg

And an unboxing video.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's a great machine, simple to use. The slicer software less so but it works. My big problem now is that I ran out of the resin it comes with so I got a bottle of Anycubic brand resin and it needs different settings but I haven't quite figured out what they are yet so every print with the new resin fails.

If you do decide to get one consider using my one of my links in the video description. ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Oh yeah, still liking it. I'll be posting a new video soon. I figured out settings that work for the Anycubic Resin. Basically the default settings except using 18 seconds exposure time instead of the default 8. This makes for very long print times. I've had a few prints take over 14 hours. I ordered some new resin from Siraya Tech that's supposed to be very good and fast so I'm hoping it will be as fast as the original resin that came with the printer. That will be coming on Thursday.

My big tip if you get it is to make sure the screws are very tight on the vat that you pour the resin into. Mine kept leaking small amounts of resin, which would get between the vat and the LCD screen and cure directly on the LCD screen. I ended up having to take it apart and remove the screen so I could gently pick away at the resin with a knife. After I got it all off I get perfect prints now.

As for the software I found a free slicer called ChiTuBox that you can use for all but the last step. So I use that for arranging my models in the build space, adding supports, hollowing it out, and adding drainage holes, then saving it as an STL and loading that into the Longer 3D slider where I can slice and save the final file for the printer. All that only takes a few minutes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Advanced Member

Cool. Thanks for this...

Cool. Thanks for this...

Are the models you are using scanned photos via Photogrammetry or models you created in 3D software?

I ask as I must have over 70 diecast scale model cars (muscle cars, hot rods, classics, etc) in various scales mostly 1/24th & 1/18 that I would love to try to scan to 3D models. But it's my understanding objects with shiny, reflective surfaces are difficult to scan.

Edited by kenmo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I have not tried printing anything I've scanned yet but it's all polygons so I don't see it being any different.  As for scanning the die cast cars it is difficult to scan shiny things however you do things to make it less shiny when you scan. Aside from painting them the common option is spraying it with dry shampoo. It's cheap, you can get a can at the dollar store, and it cleans off easily with water or even just wiping with a tissue or your fingers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...
  • Member

Nice print philnolan3d. I've never heard about Orange 10 3D printers till I read this thread. It is a really cheap device. How is it working so far?

I'm going to buy a filament printer but always had a crush on the Photon S (bigger and more exepnsive than the Orange). However, learning more about the Orange 10 would be a pleasure. I might start considering a resin printer instead :)

Also, is there any chance to gather some info about good filament printers here? I read tons of "best of" lists, guides, and similar documents but still have no clear ideas about the brand to choose. There are tons of low-budget devices that seem doing a nice work. I dived into printer technical aspects (or even tried to reading "technical but understandable" posts), but find reliable manufacturers seems to be really hard. I was sure buying a Creality would be a nice shot, then it turned to be not so reliable. Do you have any experience in the field?
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Orange 10 works well enough but I have also reviewed the Phrozen Sonic Mini. And that is my new favorite. First, I discovered that the Orange adds about 0.4mm to whatever I print so prints aren't as detailed and interlocking parts won't fit together.

For the Sonic Mini, it's exactly the same size as the 3D model. It also uses a different screen that makes it print way faster, like twice as fast. It's also higher detail because of that screen.

Another company is sending me their FDM printer to review in a couple weeks that does 2  colors, but also laser engraving and CNC router carving. I have never used an FDM printer so this will be an interesting experience. I'm getting a lot of good tips from Joel the "3D Printing Nerd" on YouTube.

Here's the Phrozen review.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Advanced Member

I've created interlocking parts with orange 10 and 30. I've only measured the 30, but my calipers says its accurate to at least 0.1mm, and below that I think my calipers isn't so good. Maybe your exposure time was a bit high, that will thicken the model.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Advanced Member
On 5/13/2020 at 11:53 AM, Archester said:

Nice print philnolan3d. I've never heard about Orange 10 3D printers till I read this thread. It is a really cheap device. How is it working so far?
 

I have both an orange10 and an orange30. Both have had serious problems. I had to order a replacement screen for the 10 after a few weeks as it failed. The orange30 has some wobbly shaft direct out of the box, and printes everything with unacceptable stripey artifacts. A replacement part is on the way, but I've waited 5 weeks so far.

I have also ordered replacement FEP, and resin was missing from my initial order. These two packages appear to be lost in the post somewhere. Longer support have been good, but I carried out a poll on their fb group and it seems like from over 100 people, 25% of them received a defective printer out of the box, or that it fails rather quickly. Again, the support is helpful and quick to offer replacement parts, but still, they should get this shit right at the factory. If you are willing to take a bit of a risk with Longer (I was) then it seems quite good for the money. Just be prepared that delays, assle and replacement parts are likely part of the experience.

 

 

 

Edited by Innovine
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Innovine said:

I've created interlocking parts with orange 10 and 30. I've only measured the 30, but my calipers says its accurate to at least 0.1mm, and below that I think my calipers isn't so good. Maybe your exposure time was a bit high, that will thicken the model.

The Orange 30 has a higher res scan than the 10, that might be why you got better results.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Innovine said:

If you are willing to take a bit of a risk with Longer (I was) then it seems quite good for the money. Just be prepared that delays, assle and replacement parts are likely part of the experience.

As for the delays, keep in mind the virus caused many factories to be shut down so a lot of things are delayed, that's why my new printer won't be shipped to me for about 2 weeks, even though they did they send it "asap" a week ago.

As for price I think the Sonic Mini is actually cheaper than the Orange 10.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
  • New Member

As per my personal experience, I would recommend Snapmaker, it is 3-in-1 3D printer is a great option for creatives – not just for educational purposes, but for many practical applications too.

Just a few limitations, you have the freedom to design and create everything, anything with precision, providing the best results.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

BTW last week I posted a review for the Epax E6. I'm thinking I like it better than the Sonic Mini. It has a slightly larger build volume, slightly higher resolution, comes pre-leveled, and I haven't had a print fail yet.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • 4 months later...
Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, Leonardo said:

Recently I read some cheap printers reviews a this site. One great this I learnt their is to experiment with the sketch/cad program you want to practice a lot and a lot. There are some more cad things I advise you may use other than the sketch, 123d, fusion 360 is yet free for usage with the hobby.

CAD is helpful but certainly not necessary for printing. I'd say most of my things I make to print are done in LightWave or 3D-Coat. When I do use CAD it's MoI3D.

Edited by Carlosan
edited spam link
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Advanced Member
Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, Leonardo said:

Recently I read some cheap printers reviews a this site. One great this I learnt their is to experiment with the sketch/cad program you want to practice a lot and a lot. There are some more cad things I advise you may use other than the sketch, 123d, fusion 360 is yet free for usage with the hobby.

why on link only ordinal printer not 3d? looks like ads from bot

Edited by Carlosan
edited spam link
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...