T.H. ROCK

I recently changed my font size on Windows 7 to Large so I can see small text easier. However, when I use PhotoShop CS3 Extended the move tool shows up as 3 tiny squares and I cannot use it on precision like for transform (scale, move, rotate) because I cannot tell where it is pointing. When I changed Windows 7 back to Medium, the problem goes away and the move tool shows up as an arrow. My eye sight isn't as good as it used to be and I need larger text and icons so I can work on the computer screen. Any suggestions?

Yeah, mine is at 25 post limit. Can't say I would ever surpass that as I'm a software lightweight and don't know enough to make it passed three or four posts tops.

Can always adjust the blade in retopology too.

Sorry, I should stop answering questions on this board pretending like I actually know something. I shall stop that bad habit immediately.

There is this software that is fairly inexpensive that bakes ambient occlusion onto meshes (high to low res). Not sure if it is what you need. http://getsmak.net/

Don't know what kind of file it is that could be so big. But you can try and open it with UVMapper Classic (the free one) and not export the normals. I've saved as much as 30 percent of the file size doing that. Of course, UV Mapper Classic might choke up on file size that big as well. Export by group if you can. Seems awfully big.

Can set the page to default under Window options. Or press "M" to bring up the material preview window.

To control bleeding and I'm not sure what you are asking on the other parts, but for painting you can use the "Freeze Tool" using any of the brushes or masks just like you can in Zbrush. The "Freeze Tool" is the same thing as masking in Zbrush. Here is a building where I selected freeze, used the rectangle brush. I then inverted the freeze so only the area I designated would be painted. I then used a stenciled "mask" to guide the paint as a pattern. (image 2) Edit: If you are comfortable with Zbrush, you can use the APPLINK from Zbrush to 3Dcoat and back to work with subtools, say for instance to paint in Per Pixel Painting and then send it back to Zbrush. Here's the link for APPLINK's: http://3d-coat.com/applinks/ Here's a subtool "Vest from Demo Soldier" that the APPLINK was used from Zbrush to 3DCoat and back. (image 1)

Impressive

What does it show for memory down at the bottom of display in 3DC? Here's mine with a sphere in the Voxel room.

Yeah, I got ripped off by paying for three online webcasts. Never got any email back, notice or whatever. Just spent my money with no results. That convinced me not to do business there.

You use tab to slide the plane to center. I've found that hit the description helps reset the plane for some reason. Sometimes I make a blank layer so I can click on it, then back to the sculpt I am working on to get the symmetry plane 'normalized.'

Wow! Very nice alien! I like it a lot.

Outstanding! I am so pleased with 3DCoat in its new version. There is no APPLINK for Carrara users, but I adapted using Carrara's Go-Z plug-in. Here's a quick image to show that all works as advertised. From Carrara 8Pro to Zbrush 4R to 3DCoat3.7 to PhotoShop Extended to 3DCoat3.7 to ZBrush4R to Carrara 8Pro. It worked seamlessy and to perfection!

heh. Well, probably from a lack of practice of drawing genitalia. I was deciding whether it should have an os penis (like dogs and bulls) or the usual mammalian/humanoid package. Also, what is/are the best brushes to use to put in detail like wrinkles/crevices/veins/muscle definition? Thanks in advance for any advice.

Practicing my 3DCoat skills for halloween poster. I love this program. For a non-artist I think I'm getting the hang of this 3D Stuff. Mostly thanks to a superior program like 3DCoat though. heh I call this character Mega-Foot. (a larger Yeti type character with oversized feet)

I would use a burlap texture with a neutral moderate brown texture with about 50 percent depth, touch up the fine borders in photoshop. To brighten it up, I might put on first, a new layer, a base coat of a pale yellow or brown, then use screen or some other overlay to keep the diffuse from being too dark. Then, I would use use no depth, "more in cavity" with a very dark brown to establish the depth of the areas between the threads. Specularity I would keep quite low and adjust it with your 3D software's nodal or shader functions. Transparency could be altered depending on the look of the material you want to appear.

Wow! I want that Dot Ring tool! heh

Yep, saw the autoretopo in the category, clicked and voted.

Much more pleasing to the eye than the "gray flesh" I saw and handled in university anatomy class. heh

Thanks to both! Both ideas, changes worked for me.

In the image above I show a retopo attempt on a sphere. The polygons seem to be buried into the mesh of the sphere. (using points and faces) I've used brush, but the polygon still remains buried. When I import a mesh for retopo, sometimes the blue points don't show up at all. Just downloaded the new version. Is there something I'm doing incorrectly?

Awesome garageware!

gnarly

Welcome! Only know from what I've read and viewed about "unlimited clay", but it looks to be an exciting development.